What Your Hair Type Is & What It Means

Knowing your curl type changes everything about how you care for your hair. The products that work for your friend's waves might weigh down your coils or leave your curls frizzy. The styling technique that gives one person bouncy ringlets might stretch out another person's curl pattern entirely.

I see this confusion in my chair constantly. Someone comes in frustrated because they bought the "best" curl cream and it made their hair greasy, or they followed a tutorial and ended up with limp, undefined waves. Nine times out of ten, they're using products or techniques meant for a completely different curl type.

I'm Bri, a stylist at The Warehouse Salon in Fairfield and our sister salon Studio 360 in Chatham. I specialize in curly and textured hair, and I've spent years learning how different curl patterns behave. Let me tell you about a client who finally understood her hair after we figured out her actual curl type.

What Happens When You Don't Know Your Curl Type?

A client named Priya came to me last spring. She was a teacher in West Orange and had been fighting with her hair for as long as she could remember. She described it as "poofy" and "unmanageable" and said she'd tried every curly hair product on the market.

"Bri, I watch all these curly hair tutorials and my hair never looks like theirs," she said. "I scrunch, I diffuse, I use gel. It just poofs out and looks messy."

I looked at her hair. She had beautiful 3B curls, tight corkscrews that were densely packed and prone to dryness. But she'd been following routines designed for 2C waves because that's what she saw most often online.

"The products you're using aren't heavy enough for your curl pattern," I told her. "Your curls need way more moisture than wavy hair does. And you're probably not using enough product because the tutorials you're watching use half of what you need."

We talked through her routine. She was using a lightweight mousse and scrunching with a microfiber towel. For 2C waves, that's perfect. For her 3B curls, it was leaving them dry, undefined, and frizzy.

I switched her to a rich curl cream, showed her how to apply it in sections using the praying hands method, and had her diffuse on low heat instead of air drying. When we finished, she stared at herself in the mirror.

"These are my curls? I didn't know they could do this."

Two weeks later she texted me: "I've gotten three compliments on my hair this week. Three. That's never happened."

Two months later: "I actually like my hair now. I stopped straightening it."

Priya's curls were always beautiful. She just didn't know how to work with them because she didn't know what she was working with.

Type 1: Straight Hair

Type 1 hair has no visible curl or wave pattern. It's the straightest texture and tends to be shiny because the natural oils from your scalp can travel down the hair shaft easily. I don't see a ton of Type 1 clients looking for curl help, but I see plenty who want to understand why their hair behaves the way it does.

1A

1A is the finest, flattest straight hair. It's silky but can look limp if you use heavy products. Clients with 1A hair often tell me their hair gets oily fast, which makes sense because there's no texture to absorb the oils. Washing every other day or using a dry shampoo between washes usually helps.

1B

1B hair has a bit more body than 1A but is still straight with no wave. It's thicker and can hold styles better, but it's prone to frizz in humidity. I recommend smoothing serums or anti-humidity products for 1B clients who live in New Jersey, especially in summer.

1C

1C is the thickest straight hair and sometimes has a very subtle wave, though it still reads as straight. This hair type can be stubborn about holding curls if you try to style it wavy. It's heavy enough that lightweight products disappear into it, so 1C clients usually need medium-hold styling products.

Type 1 hair is the easiest to manage in terms of detangling and styling, but it can be tricky to add volume or texture. The main concerns I hear from straight-haired clients are oiliness at the roots and flatness at the crown.

Type 2: Wavy Hair

Type 2 hair forms an "S" pattern and sits between straight and curly. This is where I see the most confusion because wavy hair can look almost straight when weighed down by the wrong products, or frizzy and undefined without enough hold. Priya thought she had Type 2 hair for years because her curls were so undefined.

2A

2A waves are loose and fine, barely there but visible when you let your hair air dry. This hair type is easy to style either straight or wavy, but the waves can fall flat quickly. I tell 2A clients to use lightweight mousses or sea salt sprays if they want to enhance their natural texture.

2B

2B waves are more defined and start closer to the root than 2A. The "S" pattern is obvious, and this hair type tends toward frizz, especially at the crown. Using a diffuser instead of air drying helps 2B waves keep their shape without poofing out.

2C

2C waves are thick and well-defined with lots of body. They're almost curly but don't quite form full ringlets. This is the waviest wave, and it needs more moisture than 2A or 2B. I recommend leave-in conditioners and curl creams for 2C clients because their waves are substantial enough to handle the weight.

Type 2 hair benefits from products that enhance texture without weighing it down. Wavy hair is more prone to dryness and breakage than straight hair because the bends in the strand make it harder for natural oils to travel down. Regular conditioning is important even for fine waves.

Type 3: Curly Hair

Type 3 hair has defined curls that form ringlets or spirals. This is Priya's territory. The curls spring back when you pull them and have real bounce and dimension. Type 3 hair needs consistent moisture because the curl pattern creates more opportunities for dryness and frizz.

3A

3A curls are loose and loopy, about the circumference of a thick sidewalk chalk. They're springy and shiny when hydrated but can go flat or frizzy without the right products. I recommend lightweight curl creams and gels for 3A hair because it's curly enough to need definition but fine enough to get weighed down by heavy products.

3B

3B curls are tighter corkscrews, about the size of a Sharpie marker. This was Priya's curl type. The curls are well-defined but densely packed, which means they need more product and more moisture than 3A. I showed Priya how to apply her curl cream in sections so every curl got coated, not just the outer layer.

3C

3C curls are tight corkscrews or coils, about the size of a pencil or straw. They're densely packed and prone to shrinkage, meaning the hair looks much shorter than it actually is when dry. 3C hair needs heavy moisture and careful detangling. I always recommend detangling with conditioner in the shower, never dry.

Type 3 curls thrive on moisture and definition. Deep conditioning every week or two keeps the curls healthy and reduces breakage. Curly hair has a structure that makes it more fragile than straight hair, which is why gentle handling matters so much.

Type 4: Coily Hair

Type 4 hair is tightly coiled with a zig-zag pattern rather than a spiral. It's often called kinky or coily, and it's the most fragile hair type because of how tightly the strands bend. Type 4 hair can experience significant shrinkage, sometimes appearing half or even a quarter of its actual length when dry.

4A

4A coils are tight and springy, about the size of a crochet needle. They're well-defined when moisturized and have a visible "S" pattern when stretched. 4A hair is the most manageable of the Type 4 subtypes but still needs consistent moisture and gentle styling to prevent breakage.

4B/4C

4B and 4C hair have tightly packed coils with a zig-zag pattern that's less defined than 4A. The strands bend at sharp angles, which makes this hair type prone to dryness and breakage. Protective styles like twists, braids, and bantu knots help 4B/4C hair retain length by reducing manipulation.

Type 4 hair requires the most moisture of any hair type. I recommend the LOC or LCO method for my 4B/4C clients, which stands for liquid, oil, cream (or liquid, cream, oil). Layering products this way seals in hydration and keeps coils moisturized longer. Deep conditioning is essential, and so is sleeping with a satin bonnet or pillowcase to prevent friction damage.

How Do You Figure Out Your Curl Type?

The best way to determine your curl type is to wash your hair with a gentle shampoo, skip conditioner, and let it air dry without touching it. Whatever pattern forms naturally is your curl type. Most people have more than one texture on their head. Priya has 3B curls through most of her hair but 3A near her hairline.

If you're not sure, come in for a consultation. I look at curl patterns all day and can tell you within a few minutes what you're working with and what products will actually help.

Finding Products for Your Curl Type

Everyone's hair is different from scalp to ends. It's important to know what shampoos work for your texture and how often to wash. I wrote a whole blog on this: What Shampoo Is Best For Your Hair Type. That post breaks down how to build a shampoo routine based on your specific needs.

Your Curl Type Questions Answered

Can my curl type change over time?

It can. Hormones, medication, pregnancy, and even aging can shift your curl pattern. Priya mentioned her hair got curlier after she turned 30. I've also seen clients whose curls loosened during pregnancy and tightened again after. If your usual routine stops working, your texture may have changed.

What if I have multiple curl types?

Most people do. You might have looser curls at the crown and tighter ones underneath, or wavier pieces near your face and curlier ones in the back. Treat each section according to its needs. Priya uses a lighter product on her 3A hairline curls and a richer cream on her 3B mid-lengths.

Why does my hair look different than someone with the same curl type?

Curl type is just one factor. Density, porosity, and thickness also affect how your hair looks and behaves. Two people with 3B curls can have completely different hair if one has fine strands and the other has coarse. That's why personalized recommendations matter more than following generic tutorials.

How often should curly and coily hair be washed?

It depends on your scalp and lifestyle, but most curly and coily hair does best with washing once or twice a week. Washing too often strips the natural oils that curls and coils need. Co-washing, which means using conditioner instead of shampoo, works well for some curl types between wash days.

Book Your Curl Consultation

Understanding your curl type is the first step toward actually liking your hair. Priya spent years fighting her curls because she didn't know they were 3B, not 2C. Once we figured that out, everything clicked.

If you're not sure what curl type you have or what products will work, book a consultation. I'll assess your texture, talk through your routine, and give you specific recommendations based on what I see.

Book at The Warehouse Salon in Fairfield at 1275 Bloomfield Ave, Building 1, Unit 3 by calling 973-500-4536. If you're closer to Chatham, visit Studio 360 Salon by The Warehouse Salon and call 973-701-3030. You can also reach me on Instagram @briannalovesbalayage.

Your curls aren't the problem. You just need to know what you're working with.