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  • What is a Color Correction? - Hair Color Explained by a Hairstylist

    Jul 5, 2024by Brianna Thompson

    A color correction is the process of fixing hair color that turned out wrong, whether it's too dark, too light, uneven, brassy, or just not what you wanted. It involves using specific techniques and formulations to neutralize unwanted tones, remove color buildup, or transition your hair to an entirely different shade. Color corrections are more complex than regular color services because they're solving a problem rather than starting fresh.

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    Color corrections are some of the most challenging services we do, but also the most rewarding. There's nothing like seeing a client who walked in hating their hair leave actually loving it. The process can take hours and sometimes multiple sessions, but when it's done right, it's worth it.

    I'm Bri, one of the colorists at Studio 360 Salon by The Warehouse Salon in Chatham. Let me explain what goes into a color correction and what happened with a client who came in after a box dye experiment went completely sideways.

    How Do You Know If You Need a Color Correction?

    A client named Alicia came to see me last spring. She worked as a physical therapist in Madison and had tried to go from brunette to a caramel blonde at home using box dye. The result was patchy, with orange bands in some sections, dark roots that didn't lift, and brassy yellow ends.

    "Bri, I have a wedding in two weeks," she said. "I'm in the bridal party. I cannot show up looking like this."

    I assessed her hair. The damage wasn't as bad as I'd expected, which was good news. But the color situation was complicated. Different sections of her hair had lifted to different levels, and there was product buildup from the box dye that would affect how any new color deposited.

    "This is fixable," I told her. "But it's going to take time. We might need two sessions to get you where you want to be safely."

    She looked relieved. "I thought you were going to tell me I had to cut it all off."

    We mapped out a plan. The first session focused on evening out the levels and neutralizing the orange. The second session, a week later, refined the tone and added dimension so it looked natural, not flat.

    The day after the wedding, she texted me. "Bri. I got so many compliments on my hair. The bride asked for your number. No one would ever know it was a disaster three weeks ago."

    A month later: "I'm never touching box dye again. This experience taught me that some things are worth paying a professional for."

    Three months later, at her maintenance appointment: "My hair is healthier now than it was before I tried to dye it myself. I don't know how you did that."

    Alicia's correction required understanding why her hair ended up the way it did. Let me explain what factors lead to needing a color correction.

    Why Does Hair Color Sometimes Turn Out Wrong?

    Hair color is not a one-size-fits-all solution. There are many factors that impact how color looks on an individual's hair, including natural hair color, previous color treatments, the condition of the hair, and even minerals in your water.

    Sometimes, despite the best efforts of a stylist, the end result isn't what the client envisioned. More often, color corrections are needed after at-home coloring attempts where people don't have the tools or knowledge to predict how their hair will react.

    Alicia's box dye didn't come with instructions for her specific starting point. It assumed her hair was one uniform color with no previous treatments. Her hair wasn't, so it lifted unevenly and grabbed warmth in unexpected ways.

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    Why Are Color Corrections More Expensive Than Regular Color?

    Color corrections can be a complex process that requires various techniques, multiple formulations, and significant amounts of product. They're also time-consuming. A standard single-process color might take an hour. A color correction can take three to six hours or span multiple appointments.

    The cost reflects the skill and expertise required to achieve the desired result. We're not just applying color. We're problem-solving, often in real-time as we see how your hair responds to each step. Alicia's correction took two sessions totaling about seven hours of chair time. That's a significant investment of skill and attention.

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    Why Should You Book a Consultation First?

    If you're considering a big change in your hair color or feel that you may need a color correction, I highly recommend booking a consultation first. During the consultation, we can discuss your desired look, assess the condition of your hair, and determine the best course of action.

    Sometimes we start with a test strand to see how your hair will react before committing to a full application. Sometimes the plan includes treatments at home to strengthen your hair before we begin. Getting to your dream hair is often a process that requires investment and patience.

    Alicia's consultation let me see exactly what we were dealing with and set realistic expectations. She knew going in that it would take two sessions, how much it would cost, and what her hair would look like at each stage. No surprises.

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    What Are the Most Common Types of Color Corrections?

    Not all color corrections are the same. The approach depends entirely on what went wrong and what we're trying to achieve. Here are the three most common scenarios I see:

    Brassiness and Unwanted Warmth

    This is probably the most common correction I do. Someone tries to go blonde or lighter brown, and instead of cool, ashy tones, they end up with orange or yellow brassiness. This happens because your hair has underlying warm pigments that get exposed when you lighten it.

    Dark hair has to go through orange and yellow stages before it reaches pale blonde. If the lifting process stops too soon or the wrong toner is used, you're left with warmth you didn't want. The fix involves using toners with complementary colors on the color wheel to neutralize that brassiness. For orange, we use blue. For yellow, we use violet. Alicia's correction fell into this category, and once we neutralized those warm bands, her hair finally looked like the caramel blonde she'd been going for.

    Uneven or Patchy Color

    This happens when color lifts or deposits differently across different sections of your hair. Maybe your ends are lighter than your roots, or you have dark bands in the middle, or some sections grabbed color while others didn't. Uneven results usually come from overlapping color on previously treated hair, inconsistent application, or not accounting for different porosity levels throughout your hair.

    Correcting patchiness requires a strategic approach where we treat different sections differently, sometimes lightening some areas while depositing color on others, until everything matches. It's like solving a puzzle where every piece of your hair needs individual attention.

    Color That's Too Dark or Too Light

    Sometimes the color itself isn't wrong in tone, it's just wrong in level. Hair that came out too dark feels heavy and flat. Hair that came out too light can look washed out or expose damage you weren't expecting to see. Fixing too-dark hair often involves color removal or carefully lifting the deposited pigment without further damaging the hair.

    Fixing too-light hair means adding depth back, which is usually the easier correction of the two. Either way, we have to be careful not to overcorrect in the opposite direction, which is why these adjustments often happen gradually over multiple sessions.

    Your Color Correction Questions Answered

    Can any stylist do a color correction?

    Technically yes, but you want someone who specializes in it. Color corrections require a deep understanding of color theory, how different products interact, and how to assess damage. A stylist who primarily does single-process color may not have the experience to handle a complex correction. Ask to see before-and-after photos of corrections they've done.

    How long does a color correction take?

    It depends on the severity of the issue. A simple toning correction might take an hour or two. A full correction involving multiple processes can take anywhere from four to eight hours, sometimes spread across multiple appointments. Alicia's took two sessions over two weeks.

    Will a color correction damage my hair?

    A skilled colorist will prioritize the health of your hair throughout the process. Sometimes we can't achieve your goal in one session because pushing further would cause damage. That's why corrections often happen in stages. Alicia's hair actually ended up healthier because we took our time and used conditioning treatments throughout.

    How much does a color correction cost?

    Color corrections typically start around $200 to $300 and can go up to $500 or more depending on the complexity and time involved. It's more expensive than regular color because of the expertise, time, and product required. During your consultation, we'll give you a clear estimate based on your specific situation.

    Can I fix a color correction at home?

    I strongly advise against it. Attempting to fix a color problem at home usually makes it worse. Alicia's original issue was a box dye attempt. If she'd tried to fix it herself with another box product, she likely would have ended up with more damage and a harder correction. When color goes wrong, see a professional.

    Book Your Color Correction Consultation

    At Studio 360 Salon by The Warehouse Salon in Chatham, we're committed to providing clients with the best possible experience and results. If your hair color isn't what you wanted, don't panic. Most color situations are fixable with the right approach.

    Book a consultation with me at Studio 360 Salon in Chatham. Call us at 973-701-3030 or book online through our website. If you're closer to Fairfield, you can also see our team at The Warehouse Salon at 1275 Bloomfield Ave Building 1 Unit 3. Call 973-500-4536 to schedule.

    You can also send me a DM on Instagram @themanebri to discuss your situation before booking.

    Products like Olaplex No 3 and Amika The Kure Bond Repair Shampoo can help rebuild bonds after a correction.

    Color corrections take skill and patience, but they're worth it. Let's get your hair where you want it to be.


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