What Does Your Hair Color Level Mean?
Hair color level is a 1 to 10 scale that measures how dark or light your hair is. Level 1 is black, levels 2 through 4 are dark to medium brown, levels 5 through 7 are light brown to dark blonde, and levels 8 through 10 are medium blonde to platinum. Knowing your level tells you what's realistic to achieve and how many sessions it might take to get there.
This system is how colorists communicate about hair. When a client brings me a photo of their dream color, the first thing I do is figure out what level they're starting at and what level they want to be. The gap between those two numbers determines everything about the process.
I'm Bri, a color specialist at The Warehouse Salon in Fairfield and Studio 360 Salon in Chatham. Understanding levels has saved countless clients from disappointment and damage. Let me tell you about one who learned why this matters.
What Happens When You Don't Understand Your Starting Level?
A client named Jess came to me wanting to go blonde. She was an office manager in Parsippany with naturally dark hair that she'd been box-dyeing brown for years. She showed me a photo of a bright, beachy level 9 blonde and asked if we could do it that day.
"What level do you think you are right now?" I asked her.
She guessed maybe a 5 or 6. I looked at her hair and showed her the level chart. She was actually sitting at a level 3, a dark brown made even darker by years of box dye buildup. To get to level 9, we'd need to lift six levels.
"Jess, if I try to lift you six levels in one session, your hair will be orange and fried," I told her. "We can absolutely get you to that blonde, but it's going to take three or four sessions over a few months."
She was disappointed but appreciated the honesty. Another salon she'd consulted had told her they could do it in one day. If she'd gone that route, she would have ended up with damaged, brassy hair instead of the cool blonde she wanted.
We mapped out a plan. First session, we lifted her to a level 5 and toned out the warmth. Second session, level 7. Third session, we finally reached level 9 with her hair still healthy and shiny. It took four months total.
"I'm so glad you explained this to me," she said at her final appointment. "My hair has never been this blonde or this healthy at the same time."
Two months later: "Everyone asks where I get my hair done. The color still looks fresh."
Jess got her dream blonde because she understood what her starting level meant for the process.
The Hair Color Level System Explained
The level system is universal across professional hair color brands. It runs from 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 being the lightest.
Level 1 (Black): True black hair. This is the darkest end of the scale and requires the most lifting to go blonde. Jess wasn't quite here, but she was close.
Levels 2-4 (Dark Brown to Medium Brown): This range covers most brunettes. Level 2 is nearly black, level 3 is dark brown like Jess's starting point, and level 4 is a rich medium brown. These levels suit almost every skin tone and are versatile for adding dimension.
Levels 5-7 (Light Brown to Dark Blonde): This is the transitional zone. Level 5 is light brown, level 6 is dark blonde or light brown depending on undertones, and level 7 is a true dark blonde. Jess passed through this range during her second and third sessions.
Levels 8-10 (Medium Blonde to Platinum): The blonde territory. Level 8 is medium blonde, level 9 is light blonde like Jess's goal, and level 10 is the palest platinum. These levels work best with fair or cool-toned skin but can be adapted with the right toning.
Why Your Starting Level Determines Your Color Journey
The gap between your current level and your goal level determines how many sessions you'll need. Going one or two levels lighter or darker can usually happen in a single appointment. Going four or more levels lighter, like Jess did, requires multiple sessions to avoid damage.
If you have naturally dark hair and want to go significantly lighter, you'll need bleaching or a multi-step process. Each lifting session can only safely raise your level by about two to three levels. Trying to rush this process leads to breakage, brassiness, and hair that feels like straw.
Going darker is generally easier than going lighter. If you're a level 8 blonde wanting to be a level 4 brunette, we can often do that in one session. The color deposits rather than lifts, which is less stressful on your hair.
How Your Level Affects Color Results
Your starting level affects how any color will appear on your hair. The same dye applied to a level 4 and a level 7 will look completely different. This is why copying someone else's exact color formula doesn't work if you have different starting levels.
Undertones also come into play as you lift. Dark hair has underlying pigments that get exposed during lightening. Levels 1-4 have red and orange undertones. Levels 5-7 have orange and yellow. Levels 8-10 have yellow and pale yellow. This is why Jess's hair would have gone orange if we'd tried to lift too fast.
A skilled colorist uses toners to neutralize these undertones and achieve the finished shade you actually want. Jess needed violet-based toners throughout her process to cancel the warmth and keep her blonde cool and ashy.
Your Hair Color Level Questions Answered
How do I figure out my current level?
Look at a level chart in natural lighting and compare it to your hair at the root, not the ends. If you've been coloring your hair, your ends might be a different level than your roots. Jess thought she was a level 5 because she was looking at her sun-faded ends instead of her dark roots and box-dye buildup.
Why can't I go from dark to blonde in one session?
Lifting more than two or three levels at once causes severe damage. The bleach has to break through your hair's structure to remove pigment. Doing too much at once destroys the integrity of your hair. Jess's hair stayed healthy because we lifted gradually over four months.
Does box dye affect my level?
Yes, and it makes lifting harder. Box dye deposits color that builds up over time and doesn't lift the same way natural pigment does. Jess had years of box dye that we had to work through. It added an extra session to her process.
Can I go lighter without bleach?
Slightly, but not dramatically. High-lift color can lift one to two levels on virgin hair. To go more than that, or to lift previously colored hair, you need bleach. There's no way around the chemistry.
Book Your Color Consultation
Understanding your hair color level is the first step toward getting the color you actually want. Jess came to me wanting level 9 blonde from level 3 dark brown. Because we understood the level system, we created a realistic plan and she ended up with healthy, beautiful blonde hair instead of a damaged disaster.
If you're thinking about a color change, book a consultation first. I'll assess your current level, look at your inspiration photos, and tell you exactly what it will take to get there. No surprises, no damage, just a clear path to your goal.
Book at The Warehouse Salon in Fairfield at 1275 Bloomfield Ave, Building 1, Unit 3 by calling 973-500-4536. If you're closer to Chatham, visit Studio 360 Salon and call 973-701-3030.
Know your level. That's where great color starts.
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About the Author
Brianna Thompson
Brianna is a highly skilled and licensed cosmetologist, stylist, and color expert at Studio 360 Salon in Chatham, NJ. She possesses a thorough understanding of hair products and the science behind hair and hairstyling.
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